THIS is what we wanted for our honeymoon – beautiful, quiet, and non-demanding. There’s very little to do in this town except take long walks and eat good food, so we won’t feel guilty about spending all our time….lazing around and taking long walks and eating good food.
Somewhere around 10am – Ben wakes up and goes exploring in the square.
10:30ish – Ben returns to inform me that the weekly Villemagne market is set up in the square.
10:45am – We are both at the Villemagne market. Think the Union Square green market, except not anything like that because there are only 5 vendors set up on folding tables, and perhaps 8 customers. Local farmers/artisans with:
Table 1 – Figs! He lets us taste one, and we buy 7. They are perfectly ripe. I haven’t had a perfectly ripe fig since moving out of the FunHouse. He also has grapes and preserves -we bought grapes at Super-U yesterday, so we decline those, but we do help ourselves to some homemade pear preserves.
Table 2- Bread products. We buy: A quiche (unbelievably delicious), a meat tart (underwhelming but solid), a big croissant (it turns out to have some kind of apple jelly baked into it – delicious), a pecan tart, and some other sweet tart that escapes me right now.
Table 3 – Peaches and some other unidentifiable yellow fruit that looks sort of like a grape but clearly isn’t a grape. The vendor lets us taste one. I think it must be some apricot variety, Ben guesses plum. When we find them in a supermarket a couple days later, Ben turns out to be correct. We buy two handfuls of baby plums and 3 giant, perfect looking peaches.
Table 4 – Veggies. 2 kinds of squashes, some greens, some potatoes, etc. We buy something that might be a variety of swiss chard, or kale, or collard greens. At any rate, the lady promises it’s delicious fried up with olive oil and garlic, which was what I was planning to do with it anyway.
Table 5 – Dairy. Yogurt and cheese. We bought yogurt and brie at the Super-U yesterday, and Ben doesn’t like cheese or yogurt, so we decline to buy more. Maybe next Sunday.
11:15am – Wonderful breakfast spread of pastries and desserts while watching Sherlock (the BBC update with Benedict Cumberbatch, not the American one with Lucy Liu).
Long lazy afternoon doing all kinds of things that just seem to take longer when you are traveling and getting used to a different space.
Around 3 we decide we should take at least one walk today while we still have sunlight – go exploring.
Around 4 we succeed in leaving. We only go about 20 meters along our street before we notice a sign on the ancient church door – “Musée Ouvrée.” Upon pushing gently on the door, we discover that there is indeed an open museum exhibit inside. The price is 2 euros per person, which we pay gladly. Then it turns out that for our 2 euros, we get not only admission, but a personal tour from the extremely affable and helpful gentleman who is manning the exhibit. I explain that I do not speak much French, but this does not phase him – he slows and simplifies his speech, uses a lot of visual aids from the exhibit, and B and I actually feel that we get a pretty decent knowledge about Villemagne’s roles in ancient trade, Roman and medieval societies, and modern medicine (a village native discovered a treatment for a particular nerve disorder whose name didn’t translate, but the meaning was clear). We also got a lesson in some of the finer architectural points of the village. Some pictures of the historic church where the museum is housed:
Finally, another hour later and wiser, we finally set out on our original goal – a walk. We are hoping to accidentally discover the walking route to Bedarieux over the mountain, but we end up on a purely scenic walk instead:
By 7:30pm we are back and tired and very happy to find our neighborhood restaurant open for business. We are the only customers again. Delicious again. Again, we finish our bottle of wine.
10pm – ?? I have no memory of the rest of the evening. Somehow we ended up asleep……. 😉